STAT July 16, 2024
Eric Boodman

DECORAH, Iowa — It was livestock check-in day at the Winneshiek County Fair, and the dairy barn was consumed with a kind of pre-prom anxiety. A cow named Daiquiri was lumbering back from the milking parlor, adjusting to a new schedule that would have her “mammary system” bulging for showtime. Kennedy was getting a fresh shave, tufts of udder-fuzz drifting to the floor, revealing her resplendent venation. Baby Jesus was extruding shapely, hay-filled turds, each one caught by an eagle-eyed 14-year-old with a bucket, so the heifer wouldn’t sully her own hindquarters.

Lustrous as they looked — clean-boned, deep-ribbed, the picture of bovine health — whether some of these animals should’ve been there at all was a matter of debate....

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